Bowmaster Portable Bow Press

I got my new bowmaster press in the mail a few days ago, and got to press my first bow with it yesterday. This is the first press I have used, and I have to say it was easy. The first bow I put it on was my daughters Martin Tiger (the older model, not the new plastic one). Her draw length was setup way too short for her by the shop, so we needed to change out mods and increase it for her. The Tiger is a solid limb bow, not split limb, so I didn't need the split limb adapters for hers. The first thing you do is place the fixed bar into the limb opening below the cam on either the top or bottom limbs. After that, you lay out the press cable and slide the other adjustable bar to the shortest length you can. Make sure that you can still slip it through the opening on the opposite limb. You will want to place something (a pair of leather scraps come with it if you purchase it new) in the crook of the limb opening to keep the cable from the press from scratching up the finish on the limbs.

Now you need to check to make sure that the cables for the press are running through it properly. It should be in the tracks for both rollers as well as the one for the press bar. If everything looks good, turn the press bar handle clockwise to take out all the slack from the cable. Before going any further you need to do a little safety check. Double check the press cable to make sure it is still in all the right tracks, and make sure that the bars are seated properly in he limbs to ensure they don't slip while pressing the bow. Once you are satisfied that everything is fine, continue turning the press bar clockwise slowly. Once your strings and cables (the ones on the bow this time) go slack enough that you could remove them from the bow STOP turning, your bow is now pressed.

Next step is to do what you needed the bow pressed for in the first place!! For me it was replacing those mods. Easiest thing in the world, remove to Allen head bolts and swap the mods out. Replace the two bolts, and viola!! Now that you are done working, make sure your bow is back in shape, and your strings and cables are routed properly. SLOWLY turn the press bar counter-clockwise to let the pressure off your bow. Keep an eye on your cables and strings the whole time to make sure they don't slip out of track. Once the cable on the press starts to go slack, back it out the rest of the way and remove the bars from the limbs. You’re done!!

I couldn't find any design flaws in this press. It worked great. You can't beat the price for your first press. It will get you started, and will last you forever even if you get a fancier stand press later on. I don't think I would ever get rid of it. I do plan on upgrading in the future, but this one will stay in my gearbox and go to the range with me, as well as in my pack when I start hunting (might even get a second one down the line so I don't have to remember to swap it around).

It is slightly more difficult to press a split limb bow, but only very slightly. You will need the adapters that span around your cam and attach at the end of the limbs. The difference being, that you slip the bars from the press into this adapter instead of through your limbs. The manual shows to different ways of setting this up depending on your cams. Also, before going past just putting tension on the press, you will want to double check the adapter to make sure it is positioned on the tips of your limbs evenly, and that it is not going to rub cams or cables. You will need to play around with this a bit from bow to bow to get the right fit, but once you have it, the process is as simple as before.

I got the whole setup (press and split limb adapters) for $35 dollars used, a great deal. You can get them new for $40 for the press, and $14 for the adapters. They even sell a leather carry pouch for the press for $13.

Tools of the Trade

So, what does it take to set up shop? Not as much as you would think, but there are some must haves. First and foremost among them is a space to work. Don't get me wrong, it's not like you need a large dedicated shop, or even a dedicated corner for that matter. Your space can be as simple as your coffee table or kitchen table. A big word of advice though, get a small folding table to use instead. Nothing will hinder relations with your significant other faster than ruining said coffee or kitchen table!!! It doesn't need to be big, just somewhere to lay out your bow and tools. If you do have to set up on the furniture, lay out an old towel for a work surface, it will keep your bow from getting scratched as well. Now that you have a work area, on to the tools.

Bow Press
There are lots of options here. You can go portable with something like the Bowmaster, or get a full blown shop style setup with the Apple Press and stand. There are tons of options in prices ranging from ~$40 all the way into the thousands. The most important thing is to make sure it will work for your bow. Some presses will not work for split limb bows without an adapter that you will have to buy. Some will not press parallel limb bows without being modified. The difference here is in the way the limbs flex on a parallel vs. non-parallel bow. Parallel limbs flex vertically when the bow is drawn due to the fact that they are essentially in a horizontal plane. Non-parallel limbs will flex somewhere between vertical and horizontal, roughly at an angle towards the nock of the string. Due to this difference, if you try and press a parallel limb on a press not designed for it, it will not press fully and could damage the bow. Same applies to the non-parallel limb on a parallel press.

Presses are used for many things. Anytime you need to modify anything attached to the string, you will need to press it so that you can separate the strands of the string to get the accessories in between them. You need it to adjust cam timing (the rotation of the cams) or change draw length mods. Also for when it comes time to change out aging strings and cables, or repair damaged ones. You shouldn't need it that often, but when you do need it there is no substitute.
Examples....


Bow Vise
A simple device for holding your bow. It can be pretty hard to work on a bow unless you have a third arm!! That's where the vise comes in. A simple one will hold your bow in one position allowing you to work on your bow. A better one will allow you to rotate the bow in many directions once it is mounted. This will allow you to get the bow in just the right position for the work you need to do.
Example....


Allen Wrenches
or hex keys, whatever you want to call them. You know what these things are. You will need multiple sizes. A decent standard set from any hardware store will do. I have never run across any metric, yet. It couldn't hurt, though, to have a set of those just in case.

Screwdrivers
You won't need them all that often, but you will need them. Have a simple set of common and philips on hand.

Levels
Not your daddy's variety. A string level, and an arrow level.

These will help you in setting up your rest. Place the string level, where else.... on the string!!! Use it to make sure your bow is level vertically (up and down for those that always get them mixed up) when in the vise. Now you place the arrow level on the arrow and adjust your rest until your arrow is perfectly horizontal.

Nock Set Pliers and Brass Nocks
Brass nocks are useful for many things. You can use them to attach your drop away rest cord to your cable. Place them above and below a kisser button to secure it in place. And of course even use them to mark your nock point.

Nock set pliers, obviously, are for attaching those little brass guys. A good pair will also have a lever to pry them off with.

Draw Length Arrow

Basically a long, unfletched arrow with markings toward the end. These markings are distance measurements that allow for checking draw length. It can be used for Three functions. First, draw it back with a recurve bow, or compound with no draw stop, and you can find your draw length (someone needs to help you here to make sure your form is right, otherwise you won't get the correct draw length). Second, Draw it in your set up compound bow to check the draw length it is set at. Lastly, draw it in the same bow and use it to determine the arrow length that will be safe to use with your setup.

Draw Weight Scale
Many different varieties are available. Simple ones like this that are hand held...

All the way up to digital versions, or ones that are mounted to the ceiling. They are handy if you want to know the exact weight you have your bow set to. However, not all that necessary. Example... Lets say your bow maxes out at 60#, and the company says you can adjust the draw weight by 2# per full turn of the limb bolts. Then you know that if you back the bolts out 3 turns each, then you just roughly set your bow to 54#. I don't think it is all that important to know that it might actually be 53.2#, or 55#. If you know within a pound I would say your are good. Just get those numbers from your bows manufacturer.

D-Loop Pliers
Last thing you want while our hunting, or anytime for that matter, is for your bow to fail. If you don't tighten your d-loop tight enough it is a sure fire failure point waiting to happen. The easiest way to tighten it is with a pair of d-loop pliers. These are specially made pliers designed to fit around a d-loop. Then when you squeeze the handle, instead of the two pieces closing tightly together, they spread. The formed head holds the knot ends in place while stretching out the loop and tightening the knots.
Example....



Well, that pretty well covers the most common tools you will need and see when it comes to setting up and maintaining your bow. I tried to be as comprehensive as I could, but there are quite a few gadgets out there, and I aim to cover all I can. Those will have to wait for another day however, so stay tuned for more. I'm going high tech in the next installment.