My wife was wanting to remove the finish from here camo'd Viper Quickset sight. Her new bow is a Blueberry Mathews Ignition and purple and camo just aren't a match!!
There was a little bit of slack in the fiber optic, so I just snipped the very last millimeter or two so we could remove and reuse it. Then she finished disassembling the sight and we started to work on removing the finish. As far as that goes....... After countless hours and different chemical concoctions we finally get the finish removed. Lets just say, that after trying turpentine, acetone, xylene, and even Drano we probably spent more money thatn it would have cost to just mail it off to someone to media blast it and mail it back!!! On another note if you have something that is anodized, just pour some Drano in a glass container and drop the part in and leave it for ten minutes and you have a cleaned part.
But I digress. After finally just using acetone and elbow grease and then polishing with a metal wheel and a Dremel my wife reassembles the sight. Now that the fiber optic is back in, we need to belt a small ball on the end to hold it in the pin. NO PROBLEM, I just break out the lighter and start moving it closer to the fiber jsut wanting to barely melt the end to it holds int he pin. "PUT IT OUT, PUT IT OUT!!!!!!!" Thats all I hear from my wife as the thing catches like a fuse on a firecracker!! Within half a second the thing burns down over an inch and its time to buy a new fiber. I didn't even touch it with the flame, only got to within about an inch of it.
So we talked to a couple people that sell fiber optics online. Well they pretty much just laughed at us and told us that that is most people first experience with them. HA!!! They said the best way to do it is to heat up something metal and then start to slowly move that towards the fiber till it starts to melt. Most likely won't even have to touch it. Long story short..... Talk to people that know what they are doing before you try it and it will work out for the better. What can i say, the wife was thinking of changing the color of her pin anyways!!!!!!!!
Showing posts with label Tuning. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tuning. Show all posts
19 October 2008
16 October 2008
New posts comming soon!!!
Took a short break from shooting, and therefore tuning. Be back at it soon though. My wife and I have new bows in the mail....... Lots more tuning ahead!!!!! Look for posts on string changes, measuring strings to get new custom sets made, and complete initial bow setup tips. Plus tips on removing your anodized and dipped finishes on bows and parts.
15 September 2008
Tools of the Trade
So, what does it take to set up shop? Not as much as you would think, but there are some must haves. First and foremost among them is a space to work. Don't get me wrong, it's not like you need a large dedicated shop, or even a dedicated corner for that matter. Your space can be as simple as your coffee table or kitchen table. A big word of advice though, get a small folding table to use instead. Nothing will hinder relations with your significant other faster than ruining said coffee or kitchen table!!! It doesn't need to be big, just somewhere to lay out your bow and tools. If you do have to set up on the furniture, lay out an old towel for a work surface, it will keep your bow from getting scratched as well. Now that you have a work area, on to the tools.
Bow Press
There are lots of options here. You can go portable with something like the Bowmaster, or get a full blown shop style setup with the Apple Press and stand. There are tons of options in prices ranging from ~$40 all the way into the thousands. The most important thing is to make sure it will work for your bow. Some presses will not work for split limb bows without an adapter that you will have to buy. Some will not press parallel limb bows without being modified. The difference here is in the way the limbs flex on a parallel vs. non-parallel bow. Parallel limbs flex vertically when the bow is drawn due to the fact that they are essentially in a horizontal plane. Non-parallel limbs will flex somewhere between vertical and horizontal, roughly at an angle towards the nock of the string. Due to this difference, if you try and press a parallel limb on a press not designed for it, it will not press fully and could damage the bow. Same applies to the non-parallel limb on a parallel press.
Presses are used for many things. Anytime you need to modify anything attached to the string, you will need to press it so that you can separate the strands of the string to get the accessories in between them. You need it to adjust cam timing (the rotation of the cams) or change draw length mods. Also for when it comes time to change out aging strings and cables, or repair damaged ones. You shouldn't need it that often, but when you do need it there is no substitute.
Examples....
Bow Vise
A simple device for holding your bow. It can be pretty hard to work on a bow unless you have a third arm!! That's where the vise comes in. A simple one will hold your bow in one position allowing you to work on your bow. A better one will allow you to rotate the bow in many directions once it is mounted. This will allow you to get the bow in just the right position for the work you need to do.
Example....
Allen Wrenches
or hex keys, whatever you want to call them. You know what these things are. You will need multiple sizes. A decent standard set from any hardware store will do. I have never run across any metric, yet. It couldn't hurt, though, to have a set of those just in case.
Screwdrivers
You won't need them all that often, but you will need them. Have a simple set of common and philips on hand.
Levels
Not your daddy's variety. A string level, and an arrow level.
These will help you in setting up your rest. Place the string level, where else.... on the string!!! Use it to make sure your bow is level vertically (up and down for those that always get them mixed up) when in the vise. Now you place the arrow level on the arrow and adjust your rest until your arrow is perfectly horizontal.
Nock Set Pliers and Brass Nocks
Brass nocks are useful for many things. You can use them to attach your drop away rest cord to your cable. Place them above and below a kisser button to secure it in place. And of course even use them to mark your nock point.
Nock set pliers, obviously, are for attaching those little brass guys. A good pair will also have a lever to pry them off with.
Draw Length Arrow
Basically a long, unfletched arrow with markings toward the end. These markings are distance measurements that allow for checking draw length. It can be used for Three functions. First, draw it back with a recurve bow, or compound with no draw stop, and you can find your draw length (someone needs to help you here to make sure your form is right, otherwise you won't get the correct draw length). Second, Draw it in your set up compound bow to check the draw length it is set at. Lastly, draw it in the same bow and use it to determine the arrow length that will be safe to use with your setup.
Draw Weight Scale
Many different varieties are available. Simple ones like this that are hand held...
All the way up to digital versions, or ones that are mounted to the ceiling. They are handy if you want to know the exact weight you have your bow set to. However, not all that necessary. Example... Lets say your bow maxes out at 60#, and the company says you can adjust the draw weight by 2# per full turn of the limb bolts. Then you know that if you back the bolts out 3 turns each, then you just roughly set your bow to 54#. I don't think it is all that important to know that it might actually be 53.2#, or 55#. If you know within a pound I would say your are good. Just get those numbers from your bows manufacturer.
D-Loop Pliers
Last thing you want while our hunting, or anytime for that matter, is for your bow to fail. If you don't tighten your d-loop tight enough it is a sure fire failure point waiting to happen. The easiest way to tighten it is with a pair of d-loop pliers. These are specially made pliers designed to fit around a d-loop. Then when you squeeze the handle, instead of the two pieces closing tightly together, they spread. The formed head holds the knot ends in place while stretching out the loop and tightening the knots.
Example....
Well, that pretty well covers the most common tools you will need and see when it comes to setting up and maintaining your bow. I tried to be as comprehensive as I could, but there are quite a few gadgets out there, and I aim to cover all I can. Those will have to wait for another day however, so stay tuned for more. I'm going high tech in the next installment.
Bow Press
There are lots of options here. You can go portable with something like the Bowmaster, or get a full blown shop style setup with the Apple Press and stand. There are tons of options in prices ranging from ~$40 all the way into the thousands. The most important thing is to make sure it will work for your bow. Some presses will not work for split limb bows without an adapter that you will have to buy. Some will not press parallel limb bows without being modified. The difference here is in the way the limbs flex on a parallel vs. non-parallel bow. Parallel limbs flex vertically when the bow is drawn due to the fact that they are essentially in a horizontal plane. Non-parallel limbs will flex somewhere between vertical and horizontal, roughly at an angle towards the nock of the string. Due to this difference, if you try and press a parallel limb on a press not designed for it, it will not press fully and could damage the bow. Same applies to the non-parallel limb on a parallel press.
Presses are used for many things. Anytime you need to modify anything attached to the string, you will need to press it so that you can separate the strands of the string to get the accessories in between them. You need it to adjust cam timing (the rotation of the cams) or change draw length mods. Also for when it comes time to change out aging strings and cables, or repair damaged ones. You shouldn't need it that often, but when you do need it there is no substitute.
Examples....
Bow Vise
A simple device for holding your bow. It can be pretty hard to work on a bow unless you have a third arm!! That's where the vise comes in. A simple one will hold your bow in one position allowing you to work on your bow. A better one will allow you to rotate the bow in many directions once it is mounted. This will allow you to get the bow in just the right position for the work you need to do.
Example....
Allen Wrenches
or hex keys, whatever you want to call them. You know what these things are. You will need multiple sizes. A decent standard set from any hardware store will do. I have never run across any metric, yet. It couldn't hurt, though, to have a set of those just in case.
Screwdrivers
You won't need them all that often, but you will need them. Have a simple set of common and philips on hand.
Levels
Not your daddy's variety. A string level, and an arrow level.
These will help you in setting up your rest. Place the string level, where else.... on the string!!! Use it to make sure your bow is level vertically (up and down for those that always get them mixed up) when in the vise. Now you place the arrow level on the arrow and adjust your rest until your arrow is perfectly horizontal.
Nock Set Pliers and Brass Nocks
Brass nocks are useful for many things. You can use them to attach your drop away rest cord to your cable. Place them above and below a kisser button to secure it in place. And of course even use them to mark your nock point.
Nock set pliers, obviously, are for attaching those little brass guys. A good pair will also have a lever to pry them off with.
Draw Length Arrow
Basically a long, unfletched arrow with markings toward the end. These markings are distance measurements that allow for checking draw length. It can be used for Three functions. First, draw it back with a recurve bow, or compound with no draw stop, and you can find your draw length (someone needs to help you here to make sure your form is right, otherwise you won't get the correct draw length). Second, Draw it in your set up compound bow to check the draw length it is set at. Lastly, draw it in the same bow and use it to determine the arrow length that will be safe to use with your setup.
Draw Weight Scale
Many different varieties are available. Simple ones like this that are hand held...
All the way up to digital versions, or ones that are mounted to the ceiling. They are handy if you want to know the exact weight you have your bow set to. However, not all that necessary. Example... Lets say your bow maxes out at 60#, and the company says you can adjust the draw weight by 2# per full turn of the limb bolts. Then you know that if you back the bolts out 3 turns each, then you just roughly set your bow to 54#. I don't think it is all that important to know that it might actually be 53.2#, or 55#. If you know within a pound I would say your are good. Just get those numbers from your bows manufacturer.
D-Loop Pliers
Last thing you want while our hunting, or anytime for that matter, is for your bow to fail. If you don't tighten your d-loop tight enough it is a sure fire failure point waiting to happen. The easiest way to tighten it is with a pair of d-loop pliers. These are specially made pliers designed to fit around a d-loop. Then when you squeeze the handle, instead of the two pieces closing tightly together, they spread. The formed head holds the knot ends in place while stretching out the loop and tightening the knots.
Example....
Well, that pretty well covers the most common tools you will need and see when it comes to setting up and maintaining your bow. I tried to be as comprehensive as I could, but there are quite a few gadgets out there, and I aim to cover all I can. Those will have to wait for another day however, so stay tuned for more. I'm going high tech in the next installment.
13 September 2008
Sight Physics
We were out at the range today trying to sight in our new Viper Quickset sights (a single pin sight with a slider for yardage adjustments). My wife was having trouble getting hers set. She got it pretty well sighted in, but...... Her sight was set almost as low as we could make it. The way it was she would barely be able to shoot out to 30 yards, and no way she could reach 40. By the way, she shoots a Hoyt Selena set to 42#, 25". There was a little bit of adjustment left in the actual sight mount, so we moved it all the way down to give her more adjustment with the slider.
So, we did that, then we set the slider back at the bottom (puts the sight as high as it can go), and tried again. She still nearly put it in the dirt. Played a little more, and got the same results as before. Still no way she could shoot the 40 yard target. Now we are both getting really frustrated. I start rethinking what we are doing, but we are doing it right. The higher the sight pin, the lower your arrow will hit. Finite and hard set rule. Finally it dawns on us! Why not just have her change her anchor, and move the peep up? By moving the peep up and lowering the anchor, you effectively move your entire bow down. With the bow moved down, you have to angle the bow up to see the sight pin if it was left in the same place. Therefore, you hit higher on the target. OR, you can do what we had been trying to do all along, move your sight up!! We didn't move the peep yet, but we moved her anchor and she shot a few. Now her sight is almost at the top part of the slide when she shoots the 20 yard target, giving her plenty of adjustment to allow her to hit the 50 yard easily, and maybe even he 60. She is trying to decide whether she wants to use the peep anymore, or work on using a kisser and just feeling out the consistent anchor. But that's a discussion for another day.
So, we did that, then we set the slider back at the bottom (puts the sight as high as it can go), and tried again. She still nearly put it in the dirt. Played a little more, and got the same results as before. Still no way she could shoot the 40 yard target. Now we are both getting really frustrated. I start rethinking what we are doing, but we are doing it right. The higher the sight pin, the lower your arrow will hit. Finite and hard set rule. Finally it dawns on us! Why not just have her change her anchor, and move the peep up? By moving the peep up and lowering the anchor, you effectively move your entire bow down. With the bow moved down, you have to angle the bow up to see the sight pin if it was left in the same place. Therefore, you hit higher on the target. OR, you can do what we had been trying to do all along, move your sight up!! We didn't move the peep yet, but we moved her anchor and she shot a few. Now her sight is almost at the top part of the slide when she shoots the 20 yard target, giving her plenty of adjustment to allow her to hit the 50 yard easily, and maybe even he 60. She is trying to decide whether she wants to use the peep anymore, or work on using a kisser and just feeling out the consistent anchor. But that's a discussion for another day.
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